AMARYLLIS Care

Pot: Size the pot so that there is 1 inch of space between the bulb and the side of the pot. Provide good drainage.

Soil Mix: Sandy-loam mix, soil mix for bulbs or 1/2 peat and 1/2 perlite, Never use garden soil. Any standard potting mix works well.

Timing: After planting, it takes 6-8 weeks to flower. So, planting time should be 8 weeks before you want your plant to flower. Bulbs are forced into dormancy in August for Christmas blooms. Bulbs will naturally go dormant in the fall and begin growing again in the February or March. For continuous bloom from December to May, stagger the start of dormancy every two weeks from September to January. Amaryllis requires a minimum of 6 weeks of dormancy to produce flowers for the next growing season. To induce dormancy, withhold water and lay pot on it's side in a cool location. Bulbs will tolerate temperatures near freezing but only require temperatures in the low 50's to insure the development of flowers.

Bulbets: Besides seed production, Amaryllis reproduce by producing 'bulbets' or miniature bulbs once they mature. For a bold display, leave bublets attached to the mother bulb. If you prefer, gently remove any bulblets and plant them individually. New bulbets flower in about 2 years.

Potting: Bury the bulb in soil leaving the top 1/3 of the bulb above the soil surface and 1/2 to 1 inch of space between the soil surface and the top of the pot (for ease of watering). The inside wall of the pot should be, no more than, 1 inch from the side of the bulb.

Moisture: Water thoroughly to initiate growth and break dormancy. Once dormancy is broken and flower spike begins to develop, water sparingly until the bulbs produce leaves, allowing the soil to dry out between watering. Once leaves are produced, increase watering until leaves are mature, then keep the soil moist throughout the growing season. Some Amaryllis will produce leaves after it has flowered while others produce leaves before they flower. This is dependant on the particular hybrid you are growing. Do not leave pot sitting in water. This will rot the roots and bulb. Also try to keep water from the crown or growing portion of the bulb. This will also rot the bulb. If in doubt, don't water. It's better to error on the safe (dry) side, than to rot the bulb.

Light: Amaryllis are sun loving. Southern window exposure is best, east or west second best. In northern exposures, provide additional light. For even growth, turn pot every few days. Many people summer their bulbs outside in bright light until frost.

Fertilizer: Fertilize only after bulb has produce good leaf growth. Fertilizer before new growth will damage and kill the roots. Any all-purpose fertilizer like 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 will work fine. We suggest mixing the fertilizer 1/4 to 1/2 strength (according to the directions) and watering with this solution every other week while in active growth. Stop fertilizer 1 month before dormancy.

Care: Large bloom hybrids may require staking. As the flowers begin to fade, remove flower parts to prevent seed formation and drain on plant nutrients. When the flower stalk collapses, cut stalk above the bulb. Do not remove green leaves - they provide food for next year’s blooms. The brighter the light your plant receives and the more leaves it produces, the more flowers your bulb will have the following season.

Note: Some species of Amaryllis do not require and should not be forced into dormancy. These include Amaryllis reticulata and Amaryllis papilio.

Culture tips provided by:

Orchid Enterprise Inc.

www.orchidenterprise.com